Yes there ARE Black People in Mexico: An Interview with Anthropologist Bobby Vaughn

If you google Blacks in Mexico, the first website you will see is http://www.afromexico.com/. This website was created by a brother, Bobby Vaughn, in 2006, to help people explore the history of blacks in Mexico. Vaughn earned his Ph.D in anthropology at Stanford University. His dissertation was Race and Ethnicity: A Study of Blackness in Mexico. He is currently Associate Professor of Anthropology at Notre Dame de Namur University. In honor of Cinco de Mayo, I decided to interview Bobby Vaughn for the website.

For years, your website has been THE place where people first know that Afro-Mexicans exist. How did you first learn that there were Afro-Mexicans in Mexico?

I first learned about Afro-Mexicans during a study abroad trip to Mexico back in 1992.  I was studying at the Universidad Iberoamericana in Mexico City and I took a bus trip to the Costa Chica to see for myself whether, indeed, there were Afro-Mexican communities there.  Prior to the road trip I had stumbled across some books on the subject, but none of my Mexico City friends knew whether Mexicans of African descent existed or not!  So I had to do some investigating on my own.

Can you describe the Costa Chica region to all of us who have never been? What is the landscape? How are the beaches? Where is it!!? (For all my people who don’t know)

The Costa Chica is located along Mexico’s southern coast on the Pacific Ocean.  The nearest large cities are Acapulco in the state of Guerrero and Puerto Escondido in the state of Oaxaca.  The landscape is fairly uneventful (sorry Costa Chicans!) and relatively flat.  It is not beautiful in a spectacular way, but sunsets over coconut palms are part of the scene in most towns.  The beaches in the Costa Chica are quite undeveloped, meaning no stores, vendor, or much of anything.  This can be very peaceful, but they are not seen as beautiful  as are the more touristy beaches that you are aware of.   The individual towns are dusty and hot and the pace is very slow.  There will be dogs, chickens, and horses around, and lots of kids playing and laughing.

How did black people get to Mexico and WHY don’t many people know about them?

Black people arrived to Mexico in much the same way that we arrived to wherever we are found in the Western Hemisphere – the slave trade.  The Spanish brought slaves from Africa to Mexico primarily in the last 1500s up through the 1600s.  After that, the slave trade to Mexico pretty much subsided, just as it was really gearing up in the rest of the Americas.  I think most people in Mexico don’t know about the black population for two basic reasons.  First, it is a very small population that lives in parts of Mexico that are relatively isolated (much more so  30 or 40 years ago) and there is very little reason for “outsiders” to be there.  Secondly, I think that in Mexico, the government and intellectual classes have down-played the existence of these Afro-Mexicans, preferring to focus attention on the indigenous roots of Mexico.  Mexican blacks, for example, are rarely mentioned in the state-run school textbooks.

Bobby Vaughn has a strong relationship with the Afro-Mexicans of the Costa Chica region in Mexico

The pictures on your site of the Afro-Mexican communities are so intimate. How were you able to gain access to these communities?

Gaining access was very easy for me.  I have learned that being friendly and being quick with a smile has always served me well in my field work.  Being able to speak Spanish was also very helpful in forging relationships with people.  More than anything, any level of trust that I have earned with people in Mexico is a product of many years of traveling to the same places and maintaining relationships over time.

Do Afro-Mexicans identify themselves as black? Or would you say they don’t see race?

Continue reading Yes there ARE Black People in Mexico: An Interview with Anthropologist Bobby Vaughn

Tulum Mexico: A Photo Essay

Last year, I finally made it to Cancun and the Riviera Maya. I had been avoiding this area of Mexico because I deemed it too “touristy” for my cultured self. Well that was before I discovered the small city of Tulum, Mexico. Tulum, Mexico is a small “pueblo” south of Cancun and Playa del Carmen. It’s known for the Cabana hotels located right off the beach. The yoga crowd has been traveling to Tulum for decades, but now it’s attracting the “chic” crowd. It was just announced that a new airport would open in Tulum to boost tourism to the area. I must admit, I’m a bit scared of what may happen to my dear Tulum. Check out the pictures below to get a little taste and plan your vacation before the tourist onslaught.

The Beach

I had never seen a beach like the one in Tulum, Mexico. Yes, Cancun has powder sand and blue waters, but it definitely doesn't have a backdrop of palm trees and cabanas. For the first time in my life, I actually WANTED to play in the ocean. I took several walks up and down the beach.

This was the view from my cabana on the beach. Can you get this at a hotel in the Cancun? Nope!

The Hotel

After meticulously researching Cabana hotels in Tulum, I chose to stay at the Cabanas La Luna hotel. Read about my tips for choosing a Cabana hotel here! Your hotel stay can definitely make or break your experience in Tulum.

La Luna hotel was right on the beach!!

My room was a little tiny but it made up for it in style

Activities

Besides just lounging on the beach, there are many activities to do in Tulum. You can check out the Tulum Mayan ruins and even swim in the beach right below. You can visit the Sian Ka’an Reserve, which is definitely on my MUST DO list the next time I make it Tulum. The Sian Ka’an Reserve is a protected natural park in Mexico. There are also several Cenotes in the area to swim in. A cenote is a sinkhole with exposed rocky edges containing groundwater. I did an organized tour of the Cenote because I can’t really swim, but anyone can visit them and pay a minuscule admission fee.

Continue reading Tulum, Mexico: A Photo Essay

How to Choose a Cabana in Tulum, Mexico

Let’s face it. The only reason you decided to go to Tulum, Mexico is because you wanted a respite from the crowds in Cancun and Playa del Carmen AND you wanted stay in a Cabana off a white sand beach and an aqua blue sea. Thus, more than ever, the choice of which Cabana hotel you choose will impact how you will enjoy your trip. I just made that same decision three weeks ago, when I chose La Luna Hotel for my Tulum Vacation. I spent two nights there in what is the best beach vacation I have ever experienced. I went to bed and arose to the sounds of the ocean. I took long walks along the beach barefoot. I swam in Cenotes. I saw Mayan ruins on a cliff overlooking a beach.

I’m never going back to one of those Cancun all-inclusive resorts.

Below are some questions you should ask your self before you choose a Cabana

How much are you willing to “rough” it?
Twenty years ago, all you could do was rough it on the beaches of Tulum, with just a wooden shack over your head, a swinging bed, mosquito net and no more. Ten years ago, I might have been able to rough in a basic cabana (Sand floors, saggy bed with mosquito net, plastic desk and NO electricity). But today, as a seasoned traveler who likes her electricity and wifi, I just can’t do it. For the purposes of this article, I am going  to assume that you want the typical comforts of a three star hotel – maid service, clean sheets, electricity and wifi. Even some hotels that do have electricity will turn it off around 10pm. If you want electricity full time make sure the hotel provides it. My hotel had electricity round the clock.

Continue reading How to Choose a Cabana in Tulum, Mexico

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